Scarpetta: A Serious Pinot Grigio (Paul Marcus Wines)

By Nikki Goddard

Few grape varieties divide the wine-drinking masses more than Pinot Grigio. The fact that it has been constantly struggling with a very public identity crisis benefits neither vine nor consumer. Not actually its own distinct variety, Pinot Grigio, like Pinot Blanc, is actually a color mutation of the much more universally beloved Pinot Noir. If Pinot Noir is a high-maintenance but friendly beauty who strives for perfection in all she does, Pinot Grigio is known as her plain, timid little sister who tiptoes through life trying her best not to get on anyone's bad side. To make matters worse, she must follow in the footsteps of her earlier-born twin sister, the more sophisticated and worldly Pinot Gris. Despite all odds, however, Pinot Grigio managed in the early twenty-first century to find an accepting table in the lunchroom, where she has enjoyed popularity among an affable crowd ever since. 

To understand Pinot Grigio, we must first understand its provenance. New grape varieties can come into existence in a number of ways--two existing varieties may be bred in a nursery, or cross-pollinated in the vineyard, or, sometimes, a new vine will turn out to have slight differences from its parent plant. If the vine grower finds the traits of the new plant to be desirable, he or she might take a cutting to propagate new, similar plants with the same characteristics, known as clones. With more than 1,000 registered clones, Pinot Noir is often considered to be a highly genetically unstable grape variety, but a more likely explanation for its clonal diversity is its ancient status. In existence for around 2,000 years, this grape variety has had more time than most to branch out and experiment. Pinot Gris made its first appearance some time around the early 1700s, popping up separately in Germany and France within just a year of one another. It finally found its way to Italy at the beginning of the nineteenth century, where it changed its name to Pinot Grigio and reinvented its personality. 

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Today, the Gris/Grigio divide can be a bit confusing. While they are indeed the same grape, they tend to present themselves quite differently. In France, Pinot Gris is at its best in Alsace, where it takes on the luscious character of ripe peaches and apricots, often with a hint of smoke, developing rich, biscuity flavors with age. However, as Pinot Grigio in north-eastern Italy's Veneto region, the greatest achievement of these fresh and lightly fruity wines is being voted "least likely to offend." Seriously: a Google search for the phrase "Pinot Grigio" yields 9,400,000 results, while the phrase "Pinot Grigio inoffensive" turns up 9,300,000. But how can a grape whose best attribute appears to be neutrality garner such praise in France, Germany, and Oregon as Pinot Gris? (It is worth noting that in the new world, lighter, more commercial, and inexpensive styles of this wine are typically labeled as 'Pinot Grigio," while the more serious, flavorful bottlings boast the name 'Pinot Gris.")

With certain practices in the vineyard and cellar, the Pinot Grigio grape can indeed produce wines worthy of higher praise than "inoffensive." If acidity is preserved and yields as well as sugar levels are kept to a minimum, varietal character is given the chance to shine. Because the name "Pinot Grigio" alone is enough to sell wine to the general populace, most is produced by big companies that don't feel the need to try very hard--hence the reputation. But with a bit of care and attention, the Italians are quite capable of coaxing bright and even complex flavors from the much-maligned grape. The region of Alto Adige does this with the most consistency, although some exciting examples are now coming out of Friuli Venezie-Giulia--Pinot Grigio's best-known home--as well.

One of the best Friulian Pinot Grigios we have discovered is made by a winery called Scarpetta, owned and operated by Bobby Stuckey, M.S. and Chef Lachlan Patterson, the owners and masterminds behind James Beard Award-winning restaurant Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado. Scarpetta's wines are created to complement the Friuli-inspired cuisine of the restaurant, and they achieve this mission well. The Pinot Grigio, surprisingly, is the standout in their lineup, which also includes a Sauvignon Blanc, a Friulano, a Barbera, and a sparkling Rosé. Planting vines in cooler sites accounts for impressive balance of acidity and alcohol, and a brief period of skin-contact followed by six months of lees aging lends body and texture atypical of the often watery beverage. 

On the nose and palate, this wine is anything but bland, with aromas of white flowers, peach, apricot, and hints of minerality. Dry and crisp, with just the right amount of acidity, flavors of stone fruits, lavender, honey, lime, melon, pear, white flowers, and minerals make this Pinot Grigio perfect to drink on its own: refreshing, but never boring. Naturally, a wine created by restaurateurs is going to make for some great food pairings as well--try it with proscuitto, sashimi, and lighter dishes based on chicken, fish, and pork. 

To all of the Pinot Grigio nay-sayers out there: we suggest you give Scarpetta a try. And for the already initiated, this will be an easy way to step up your wine game and see what this oft-underachieving grape is capable of at its best. If you've spent your life shunning Pinot Grigio, make a space at your lunch (or dinner) table. You just might find that you've been a bit judgmental without really getting to know her.

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2012 Scarpetta Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT, $16

The Mother of All Wines (Paul Marcus Wines)

Crafting a great bottle of wine can be quite similar to raising a family. From shielding sensitive young grapes in the vineyard from pests and disease to controlling unruly fermentations in the cellar, certain winemakers already know that the process of growing up depends on both nature and nurture. This Mother’s Day, celebrate the mothers in your life with a glass of wine made lovingly by a winemaker who is also a mother.


All wines listed are 15% off now through Sunday, May 11th,

 

FEATURED WINEMAKERS
and wines available at PMW:

Cathy Corison
Corison Winery
Napa Valley, California
*Winery offering free tastings for mothers this Sunday!
1998 Corison Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $150
2003 Corison Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $135

Elisabetta Foradori
Azienda Agricola Elisabetta Foradori
Trentino, Italy
2010 Foradori Teroldego, Trentino, Italy, $27

Vanessa Wong
Peay Vineyards
Sonoma Coast, California
2010 Peay Pomarium Estate Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $59

Heidi Schrock
Weinbauerin Heidi Schrock
Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria
2010 Heidi Schrock Weissburgunder, $28

Milla Handley
Handley Cellars
Anderson Valley, California
2012 Handley Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, $23

Tracey Brandt 
Donkey & Goat
Berkeley, California
2011 Donkey & Goat Syrah, Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado, $36
2012 Donkey & Goat 'Five Thirteen' Red Wine Blend, El Dorado, $31
2013 Donkey & Goat Sparkling Chardonnay 'Lily's Cuvée,' Anderson Valley, $30


Laura Brunelli
Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse
Montalcino, Italy2004 Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino, $68
2010 Gianni Brunelli Rosso di Montalcino, $30


Clelia Romano 
Colli di Lapio Romano Clelia
Campania, Italy
2011 Colli di Lapio Romano Clelia, Greco di Tufo 'Alexandros,' Campania, Italy, $28
2012 Colli di Lapio Romano Clelia Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Italy, $30

Christina Saahs
Nikolaihof
Wachau, Austria
2012 Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner 'Hefeabzug,' Wachau, Austria, $31

Paul Marcus Wines Spring Six Pack: Wines of the Loire Valley

By Nikki Goddard

We love the wines of the Loire Valley all year round, but there is something about them that makes them especially perfect for spring. Perhaps it is their bright, lively acidity, or their ability to exhibit fruit-forward, aromatic character while remaining harmoniously balanced. Whatever the case may be, this region of western France excels at every point on the wine spectrum, from dry to sweet, still to sparkling, and white to red (not to mention rosé!). Stretching across the Loire River from the Muscadet region on the Atlantic coast to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé at the heart of the country, this area has something to offer just about every wine drinker.

The best-known white wines here are made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne, while rosés and reds are typically produced from Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Malbec (known locally as Côt). Although a number of these grapes are commonly grown throughout the wine-producing world, here they tend to take on a character that is unmistakably Loire. Wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, possess flinty minerality and tart citrus aromas that are more delicate than their pungent cousins in New Zealand. Gamay, more frequently associated with the Beaujolais region, produces wines in the Touraine region that, though still juicy and aromatic, are often lighter and higher in acidity. Cabernet Franc, which gets to play a starring role in Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, and Anjou, is silkier and more fragrant than in Bordeaux, where it frequently takes a back seat to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Once acquainted with the wines of the Loire Valley, it is easy to see why so many wine lovers frequently wax poetic about them--to say nothing of the idyllic beauty of the region itself. 

Surprisingly (or perhaps unsurprisingly, to the initiated), during the Middle Ages, the wines of the Loire Valley were the most prized of all throughout England and France--even more so than those of Bordeaux. Because of its strategic position along the Loire River, the region enjoyed excellent access to trade, both nationally and internationally, and the wines were valued for their subtlety. Unfortunately for the winemakers of the Loire, in modern times these wines no longer achieve as much international attention as they deserve. However, their misfortune is our good fortune, as this leads to some of our favorite wines being affordable enough to drink just about every day.

This spring, we recommend you sip on as much Loire wine as you can get your hands on. To make it easy for you to indulge, we've put together a selection of a few of our favorites for our new six-pack. At a great discount, you can take a journey through the Loire Valley without having to leave the house--although you may be tempted to head to the nearest park, patio, or beach to drink these. As always, we've included tasting notes and suggested recipe pairings to maximize your enjoyment.  

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N/V Julien Fouet Crémant de Loire, $20

This bright, fresh sparkler is a wonderfully affordable alternative to Champagne, and Paul's favorite crémant. Made from a blend of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Cabernet Franc, it offers unmistakably Chenin-like aromas of honeysuckle and crisp McIntosh apples. Marked acidity on the palate is balanced by a creamy mouth-feel lent by extended lees aging. 

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2009 Domaine du Haut Bourg Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu 'Signature,' $18
This Muscadet produced only in excellent vintages from 45-year-old vines is what we want to drink all summer long. Not to be confused with sometimes-sweet Muscat, the grape variety here is Melon de Bourgogne and it is anything but saccharine. What makes this wine especially unique is the aging process it undergoes--not only does it spend four years resting on the lees (more than four times the local standard), but the aging practice also takes place underground. The extended lees contract lends body and texture while the subterranean storage facilitates consistent temperature and humidity conditions year-round. On the nose this wine is slightly toasty with aromas of apple, quince, and citrus, and a pleasingly surprising palate that is simultaneously refreshingly crisp and luxuriously rich. While it is fantastic enjoyed on its own, hints of briny sea salt make it the perfect companion for any seafood dish, especially raw oysters. 

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2012 François Chidaine Vouvray 'Les Argiles,' $24

The Chenin Blanc grape is the crown jewel of Loire Valley wine, and here it is no exception. Though richly perfumed and lusciously textured, it is vinified completely dry, so that the lean, bracing salinity on the palate is a striking complement to the aromas of honey, white flowers, fresh apples, and white peaches, which give an illusion of sweetness. François Chidaine is one of our favorite Loire Valley producers, and he certainly didn't let us down with this wine. It is quite a versatile wine when it comes to food pairings, and is a truly ideal brunch wine--think soufflés, quiche, or bagels topped with smoked trout. 

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2013 François Chidaine Touraine Rosé, $13.99

Made from a blend of equal parts Pinot Noir and local underdog Grolleau, this is the rosé you'll want to bring to every picnic this season. Classic flavors and aromas of strawberry, raspberry, spice, and stone fruits make this wine eminently quaffable, while the tart acidity and mineral backbone remind one that, despite the approachable price tag, this is serious rosé.

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2012 Xavier Weisskopf Gamay de Touraine 'Le Rocher des Violettes', $24
Gorgeously aromatic and redolent of blackberries, violet petals and spice, this expression of Gamay grown on limestone soil is quite different than those grown on the granite soils of Beauajolais. On the palate, there is tart black fruit, bright acidity, and an appealing chalky texture. This is the first (and possibly last!) time Xavier has produced this wine--to supplement his own tiny yields in 2009, he added some fruit from a few nearby parcels offered by a neighboring vigneron for a limited run of Touraine Gamay--so enjoy it while you can.   

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2010 Château de Vaugaudry Chinon, $17

If you're not already a fan of Cabernet Franc, this earthy, fragrant bottling should have you convinced. It is soft and approachable, but at the same time concentrated and complex. An enticing nose of tart red fruits gives way to dusty and floral flavors, with mouthwatering savory notes of rhubarb, raspberry and dried herbs. A store favorite since the epic 1996 vintage!

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Try all of these unique and interesting wines in this month's six-pack special, which includes tasting notes and suggested pairing recipes.

Discounted six-pack price: $96
Actual retail value: $119

The New California Chardonnay (Paul Marcus Wines)

By Nikki Goddard

Let's face it, Chardonnay has gotten a bit of a bad rap. Especially when it's of the Californian variety.  Due mainly to its approachable pronounceability (much less intimidating than, say, Gewürztraminer), it enjoyed several decades of unchallenged dominance for white wine consumption, peaking near the end of the 20th century. These days, however, it's more fashionable to scorn Chardonnay than to like it. Those who do like it often sound somewhat apologetic for their preference. But to declare outright such disdain for such a versatile, high potential grape variety, is an oversimplification. Plenty of excellent wines throughout the world--white Burgundy and many Champagnes, most notably--are made from Chardonnay. 

The reason for the recent backlash has more to do with winemaker influence than with the grape variety itself. Relatively neutral in character, Chardonnay grapes can produce a vast variety of different styles of wine. Many of the flavors in these wines are derived from oak barrel aging and malolactic fermentation, although with minimal intervention in the cellar, theterroir has the opportunity to shine. The recent paradigm shift has moved consumer preferences away from the toasty, creamy, buttery characteristics imparted in the winery, and towards brighter, zestier flavors found in un-oaked Chardonnay wines. With that said, there are still many producers, particularly in California, who are producing wonderfully balanced examples on the richer side of the spectrum. Now, more than ever, there is something for just about everyone in California Chardonnay. 

Here are a few that we've been enjoying lately:

(If you like high-acid, mineral-driven Chardonnay):
2011 Copain "Tous Ensemble" Chardonnay, $18 Delicate, crisp, and lean, with aromas and flavors of tart citrus fruit, fresh apples and pears, and white flowers, supported by a backbone of minerality. 
(If you like rich and buttery Chardonnay):
2011 Mount Eden Vineyards Edna Valley Chardonnay, $20
The lush side of Chardonnay done right. Rounded, creamy texture with refreshing acidity; notes of tropical fruit, pears, honey, and almonds.

(If you're open to either, or prefer something in-between):
2012 Broadside "Wild Ferment" Chardonnay, $18 
This beautiful creature has the body of the Mount Eden with the flavor profile and acidity of the Copain. Aging on the lees gives this wine body and texture, while the nose and palate bring to mind tart fuji apples, juicy pineapple, and wet stones.

Paul Marcus Wines March Six-Pack: Beyond the Usual Suspects

By Nikki Goddard

When walking into just about any wine shop in the United States, you may find yourself a bit overwhelmed by options. Many bottles bear place names and technical terms in foreign languages, giving little or no guidance in the daunting wine selection process. Upon closer inspection, however, you will find that most of the bottles contain various combinations and incarnations of the same twenty or so grapes. Knowledge of these so-called “international” grape varieties allows the consumer to make educated guesses about what a wine will taste like--for example, it’s safe to assume that a wine made from Pinot Noir will be light and smooth, while a Cabernet Sauvignon is more likely to be full-bodied and structured.

But many of us who love wine are often not content to settle for the same old grapes day in and day out. Sure, we love to know that our reliable favorites are there to fall back on, but our literal and figurative thirst for exploration drives us to seek out new grapes the way adrenaline-junkies chase their next thrill. With more than 1,300 commercially relevant wine grapes currently planted throughout the world, half of the excitement is trying something new, while the other half is knowing there will always be something new to try.

Grapes are much more than just an agricultural product or the basis of delightful alcoholic beverages. They can connect us to the past, to other countries and cultures, and, often unexpectedly, to the wine in our glass today. For example, the ancient white variety Gouais Blanc, though now nearly extinct, is the progenitor of at least eighty-one distinct varieties in Western Europe, often in conjunction with the much more celebrated Pinot (the name given to the family of varieties that includes Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, et al.). Chardonnay and Gamay Noir are just two of many of this power-couple’s important offspring.

Teran, a dark-skinned grape variety found today in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy, produces deeply-colored, aromatic red wines with firm tannins and bright acidity. Naturally rich in iron and heart-healthy anthocyanins, Teran wine was observed by Pliny the Elder to have medicinal qualities, a belief now supported by modern medicine. It is particularly helpful in the treatment of anemia. Livia, the wife of the Roman emperor Augustus, credited the wine for her impressive eighty-two-year lifespan.

A highly acidic white grape variety from the Greek island Santorini, Assyrtiko is admired for its distinctive minerality. Strong winds threaten to blow the grapes off of their wines on the volcanic island they call home. To protect their crop, vineyard managers must train the vines into tight “nests” that shelter fruit from the breezes of the Aegean Sea. 

Santorini vineyard

A vine on Santorini

With all of the stories that the various grapes of the world have to tell, it’s no wonder that it’s so thrilling to taste something new. But if you don’t have the patience to read Jancis Robinson’s tome on the 1,368 most important grape varieties, it helps to have a jumping-off point for exploring new vinous territory. 

Having an already-familiar frame of reference is a fairly reliable way to determine whether you will enjoy a particular new variety. This month, we are attempting to demystify several somewhat obscure grapes by comparing them to those we all know and love.

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If you like crisp, refreshing Pinot Grigio, try Vermentino:

A grape that has long enjoyed popularity in northern Italy, southern France, and on the islands of Corsica and Sardinia, Vermentino is now starting to gain traction in California vineyards. It produces bright, lively, and aromatic wines that serve as a more complex alternative to Pinot Grigio.

Our Pick: 2013 Matthiasson "Tendu" Vermentino, California (1L), $19

Inspired by Austria's ubiquitous green one-liter, crown-capped bottles of highly quaffable Grüner Veltliner, Steve Matthiasson has created any easy-drinking, zippy Vermentino, blended with small amount of Cortese and Arneis, that begs to be enjoyed outdoors on a sunny day. Citrus, pear, and minerality round out the palate, while hints of white flowers and herbs add complexity to the nose. 

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If you like bright, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc, try Žilavka:

Although the wines of neighboring Croatia have been getting a fair bit of attention in the worldwide market lately, those of Bosnia and Herzegovina have thus far remained under the radar. This is unfortunate, since the region's most famous grape, Žilavka, produces high-quality, well-balanced white wines with high concentration, fresh acidity, a slightly nutty flavor and surprising age-worthiness. 

Our Pick: 2012 Brkić Čitlučka Žilavka, Mostar, Bosnia Herzegovina, $18

Fermented with native yeast, aged briefly on the lees and bottled unfiltered, this approachable, pear- and tarragon-scented Zilavka made from organic grapes is an intriguing alternative to the more pungent Sauvignon Blanc. 

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If you like mineral-driven, unoaked Chardonnay, try Romorantin:

One of the aforementioned varieties born of Gouais Blanc and Pinot, Romorantin has always lived life in the shadow of its much more popular sibling Chardonnay. Though once grown widely in the Loire Valley, Romorantin plantings are now confined to the tiny appellation of Cour-Cheverny. Like Chardonnay, its wines' styles can vary greatly with terroir and winemaker influence, but typically present are mouthwatering acidity, pronounced minerality, and bright flavors of tart green apple. 
Our Pick: 2011 Domaine Philippe Tessier Cour-Cheverny Blanc, Loire, France, $22

Rich, complex, and beautifully textured, this is a wine that is hard to dislike. Crisp, clean flavors of fresh apple and citrus mingle on the palate with hints of spice, honey, and white flowers on the nose. The finish is long and silky. This wine bears resemblance not only to lean, stony Chablis, but also to rich, concentrated Loire Valley Chenin Blanc. It is likely to delight fans of either.

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If you like light, earthy Pinot Noir, try Paìs:

Before the Bordeaux varieties made it big in Chile in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, Paìs, one of the first grapes brought to the Americas by Spanish missionaries, was king. Light-bodied, rustic, and low in extract due to thin skins, this grape has generally been relegated to the role of jug wine producer. Some winemakers, however, have seen potential in Paìs, using carbonic maceration to tame potentially astringent tannins while highlighting the bright fruit flavors.

Our Pick: 2010 Louis-Antoine Luyt "Pais de Quenehuao," Maule Valley, Chile, $20

Native Burgundian Louis-Antoine Luyt is one of Paìs' strongest proponents. He follows a philosophy of terroir-driven, minimal-intervention, natural winemaking, working with independent growers throughout the Maule Valley to source fruit from dry-farmed, organically tended vineyards. The result is a light-colored red wine with surprisingly complex flavors and aromas of tangy red and purple fruit, exotic spice, sweet earth, dried flowers, stony minerality, and just the right amount of "funk" that one might expect from a natural wine. 

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If you like aromatic, spicy Syrah, try Schiava:

This delightfully "pretty" wine suffers from a bit of an identity crisis: it is known by three different names, depending on where it's made. In Germany, it goes by "Trollinger," In Italy's Alto Adige region it is called "Vernatsch," and elsewhere in Italy it is referred to as "Schiava." Despite the confusing moniker, these wines are worth deciphering. Though much lighter-bodied than its cousin Syrah, several parallels can be drawn: deep, brambly berry flavors, floral perfume, subtle earthiness, and warm spice abound in the best examples of each.

Our Pick: 2012 Franz Gojer Vernatsch 'Alte Reben,' Südtirol, Italy, $18

From very old vines grown at high altitude, this wine displays bright acidity and classic flavors of strawberry, pomegranate, tart cherry, and herbs, with pronounced aromas of violet petals, almond, and peppery spice. For maximum enjoyment, serve slightly chilled.

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-OR- 2012 Weingut Niklas Alto Adige Schiava, Südtirol, Italy, $17 (depending on inventory)
Made from grapes grown high above the Adige river in the small village of Niklas, this wine benefits from the increased complexity lent by extra elevation. A lovely rose-scented nose gives way to a palate that is light in body but not on flavor, with notes of raspberry, red cherry, orange peel, and white pepper, with lively minerality at the core.  

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If you like bright, juicy Zinfandel, try Plavina: 

This is where things get a little complicated, but bear with us. Though many people think of Zinfandel as a classic American grape, its origins are actually in Croatia, where it is knownas Crljenak Kaštelanski, or, less intimidatingly, Tribidrag. Plavina is a direct descendent of Tribidrag that shares many of its characteristics, but the resulting wines are lower in alcohol, lighter in body, and earthier in flavor than most American Zinfandels.

Our Pick: 2010 Bibich R6 Riserva, North Dalmatia, Croatia, $18

This fresh, attractive red from Croatia's Dalmatian coast marries Plavina with equal parts Babić and Lasin (also relatives of Zinfandel), resulting in a wine that boasts flavors and aromas of dark berries, plums, tobacco, cherry kirsch, with hints of smoke and dried Mediterranean herbs--and clocking in at under 13% alcohol. 

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Try all of these unique and interesting wines in this month's six-pack special, which includes tasting notes and suggested pairing recipes.

Discounted six-pack price: $92
Actual retail value: $115

What Should You Be Drinking on New Year's Eve? (A flowchart for the oenologically challenged)

Each year, as January first approaches, millions of people throughout the world take time out from their busy lives to contemplate a very important decision that will guide them into the new year: which type of sparkling wine should they drink on New Year's Eve? Before diets have been started, gym memberships have been obtained, and our quests to become all-around better humans have begun, we must first attend to the very important matter of sending the previous year out in spectacular style. It is now common knowledge, through much scientific research (conducted primarily by the professional wine-tasting scientists at Paul Marcus Wines), that the most appropriate method of doing so is by the consumption of sparkling wine. With the plethora of options available to us, this presents a difficult dilemma that we all must face. Prosecco or Cava? Crèmant or Champagne? Blanc de Blancs or rosé? The choices can be overwhelming. To assist with your transition into 2014, we have prepared a handy flowchart to aid you in the bubbly selection process: For a truly extraordinary celebration, we recommend trying one of our Special Club Champagnes. In addition to the 2005 Gaston Chiquet mentioned above, we also carry the 2008 A. Margaine, 2008 Marc Herbart, 2007 Henri Goutorbe and 2005 Pierre Gimonnet. These are part of a very selective group of Champagne producers established in 1971, known formally as the Club Trésors de Champagne. Currently, twenty-six different grower-producers submit their highest-quality offerings (at this point, the samples are of still rather than sparkling wines) to a rigorous tasting by club members. Upon approval, the wines undergo secondary fermentation and three years of aging before a final round of tasting. The wines, though different in style and character, each expressive of their own unique terroir, are then packaged in identical bottles, yet bearing the producer's individual label. Though they are always vintage wines, Special Club wines are not released in every vintage--so as not to tarnish the superior reputation that the club carries, less-than-ideal years are avoided; none of the 26 members produced a Special Club wine in 2003. The 'Special Club' label is essentially a guarantee of not only exceptional quality, but often remarkable value in Champagne.

An Exploration of Burgundy and Piemonte

Fall is here, and that makes us crave rich, hearty comfort foods and the earthy, rustic wines that complement them so well. While we believe in drinking whatever you like all year round, there is something that just feels so right about the pairing of robust stews, risottos, and roasted meats with wines brimming with aromatics that could easily be described as  'autumnal'--from fallen leaves to fragrant herbs to holiday baking spice.  The regions of Burgundy, France and Piemonte, Italy are two producers of such wines--and they have more in common than meets the eye, as do their primary red wine grapes, Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo.  To start with, an overview of the grapes themselves: Pinot Noir grapes Nebbiolo grapes Both of these ancient varieties have complex family trees. Because they have been around for so long, many clones of each variety have developed over time, through the natural process of mutation. Pinot Noir, in particular, is an ancestor to an astounding number of grape varieties, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, and Viognier--to name a handful. Nebbiolo's resume is a little less impressive, due in part to the fact that the cultivation of much of its progeny, such as Vespolina and Freisa, has not spread much beyond their birthplace of Piemonte. On the vine, Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo almost look like they could be related, although there is no genetic connection between the two varieties. Both grow in tight bunches in a lovely shade of bluish-purple, are late to bud during harvest, very susceptible to disease, and extremely finicky about where they like to be grown. They even prefer the same type of soil--those that are calcareous, meaning that they are partly or mostly composed of calcium carbonate. These chalky soils, high in lime content, allow these difficult-to-grow grapes to reach their fullest potential. To grow Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo on the most suitable vineyard sites is like commissioning the work of a talented yet temperamental artist--at times it can be frustrating or infuriating, but the end result is a masterpiece well worth the hassle. In ideal conditions, it is a widely held belief by wine lovers throughout the world that Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo produce the finest wines in their respective countries of France and Italy. Many would even say they are among the best in the world. In a good vintage, these grapes give highly expressive, hauntingly beautiful wines with excellent aging potential. In fact, while many of the best wines made from both Pinot Noir in Burgundy and Nebbiolo in Piemonte are ready to drink (and difficult to resist!) in their youth, given time to soften and mature they can often continue to improve up to a decade or even two. The patient oenophile will be rewarded handsomely with complex aromas and flavors: red cherry, raspberry, forest floor, truffle, game, and violets can be found in both, along with Nebbiolo's signature notes of tar and rose. Though the flavors can be quite similar, each wine provides a very different sensory experience. Pinot Noir tends to be soft and velvety, while Nebbiolo's surprising tannin and structure are masked by a light, pale appearance.  The growing regions of Burgundy and Piemonte themselves have much in common, as well. Both are highly fragmented, partially because there is great diversity in the terroir of each (and there are arguably no other red wine grapes more expressive of terroir than Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo). There is variance in soil composition, slope, sunlight exposure and more that makes each small pocket of land unique. This can make learning about these regions a bit overwhelming. This is further complicated by the fact that vineyard ownership in Burgundy is governed by the Napoleonic code: when a vigneron passes away, his land is divided equally between his surviving heirs, creating a system where some vineyard owners may posses only one row of vines. Many growers in both Burgundy and Piemonte tend to own parcels of vineyards in various districts within the broader appellation. Both regions have strict rules in place to ensure quality wine production. Pinot Noir is required to comprise 100% of Bourgogne AOC, while Nebbiolo is mandated to do the same for Barbaresco DOCG and Barolo DOCG, the highest quality wines produced in Piemonte. Thanks to these venerable regions, we are able to enjoy an enriched autumn sensory experience. Let a Premier Cru Burgundy delight you with a whiff of damp fall leaves, or get inspiration for a hearty meal from the intoxicating truffle aroma of a great Barbaresco. Here are some wines will allow you to do just that, so you can see for yourself just how similar yet unique these two spectacular wine regions really are: 2011 Lucien Muzard & Fils Bourgogne Medium-bodied and eminently drinkable, this is Bourgogne AOC doing what it does best. Tart, juicy, and mineral with aromas of red cherry, violet, and fresh earth, this wine is velvety on the palate with bright flavors of cranberry and rhubarb. 2010 Domaine Camus-Bruchon & Fils Premier Cru Savigny-Narbantons With a Premier Cru Burgundy, things get a little more complex. Baking spice dominates the nose, particularly cardamom and anise, with an element of wet stone and forest floor. While red fruits like rhubarb and currant make an appearance here as well, the fruit is darker and more brooding than the Bourgogne. The beautiful, complex finish is seemingly endless. 2010 was a classic vintage in Burgundy, showcasing both the Pinot Noir grape and the regional terroir at their best. Camus-Bruchon's Narbantons comes from the Beaune side of Savigny and has a little more weight than his other Savigny wines, which makes this bottling so appealing right now.  2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo It's hard to find a better deal on Piemontese Nebbiolo than this one. Classic tar aromas and flavors are balanced by high-toned, lively notes of bright red cherries and raspberries and pleasant acidity. The tannins are much softer and more approachable here than in many otherwise comparable wines. This wine could technically be classified as Barbaresco, but since the grapes come from the youngest vines, the winery chooses to label it as Langhe Nebbiolo in order to preserve the excellent reputation of their top-tier wines. 2011 is a year in which the Nebbiolo fruit really sings, and this example from one of the region's top producers truly exemplifies the finesse for which Barbaresco is known. 2007 Sottimano Barbaresco 'Pajoré' Through consistent high quality, the Pajoré vineyard has rightfully earned its status as one of the most famous vineyards in the Langhe. This excellent example from Sottimano shows great complexity with elegant notes of violet, rose, tar, blueberry compote, clay, five-spice, anise, tobacco, and cedar. While it's drinking great now, this highly concentrated wine should continue to improve for years to come--if you can wait that long.  The whites of these regions are excellent as well: 2011 Domaine Romain Collet Chablis 'Les Pargues' This is a great example of Chablis from a vintage that was more about elegance and purity than power and concentration. Light, refreshing, and mineral, this one is perfect for warm Bay Area autumn days with a hint of crispness in the air.  2012 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis 'Vigne Sparse' Made from 100% Arneis, this medium-bodied, aromatic wine is brimming with white flowers, lemon, and fresh green pears, and a chalky minerality reminiscent of Chablis. The Arneis grape is often planted near Nebbiolo vines, in order to distract birds with its pleasing perfume so that they refrain from snacking on the higher-market-valued Nebbiolo grapes. With one whiff of this wine, it's easy to understand that logic.