An Anderson Valley Adventure, Part 2: Why Going Wine Tasting is Good for More than Just Drinking

Ferrington Vineyard

After having blogged about the Anderson Valley AVA last week, I was even more anxious to visit than I had been previously. I have known for quite some time now that I prefer the wines of that region to almost any others in the state of California, but despite the rave reviews I have often heard, I had never been to Mendocino at all. Less than twenty-four hours after the trip, I am already trying to plot my return.

Highway-128 may be one of the best arguments there is in the debate between California and New York. Beginning two hours North of San Francisco, just off of the sunburned hills of Route 101, this winding road is not for the faint of heart, but adventurous drivers will reap worthwhile rewards in the form of stunning scenery. Between the lush redwood forests, vineyards, rivers, and lakes, there is no shortage of opportunities to entertain yourself simply by looking out the window during the drive, which is useful since you won't have cell phone service for most of it. All of this leads to some very lovely photos, but equally importantly to a greater understanding of that region's wines. 

State Route 128

When we checked out of our hotel in the town of Mendocino and prepared to head south, away from the coast, the chilly air was damp enough to instantly render my hair straightener's recent hard work irrelevant. When we stopped at the first winery about twenty miles inland, a sweater was still very necessary, yet by the end of our fourth and last stop (only six miles further from the coast), it seemed I couldn't get the car's air conditioning cold enough. Experiencing this firsthand helped me deepen my understanding of what I had previously read about what makes the Anderson Valley unique--the cooling effects of the fog rolling off the Pacific Ocean (so thick early in the day that we couldn't see a bridge as we drove across it), and the intensity of the diurnal swing (the difference between the daytime heat that aids in sugar development and the cool nights that help the grapes to maintain acidity). Later, when looking at a detailed map of the region, the names of the vineyards I had seen on the wine labels ceased to be meaningless, arbitrary words--suddenly, they were valuable sources of information that I could use to predict my enjoyment of Anderson Valley wines. 

Wiley Vineyard

The wines made with fruit from the Wiley Vineyard had tended to be my favorite throughout the day, and a quick glance at the map revealed that this northerly vineyard is the closest to the ocean, and therefore the coolest. The wines tended to be light in body, low in alcohol, and marked by mouthwatering acidity. The wines of the Savoy Vineyard, quite a bit further inland, leaned more toward a bigger, bolder style, with darker fruit. After having driven through the area and feeling the temperature change, both with the direction of travel and the time of day, it was very clear to me how weather (among many other factors) had played a part in the development of the wines I had sampled.

If you're interested in learning more about the wines you enjoy, visiting the region where they are made can be an invaluable (and enjoyable!) tool. Even if you are not tasting wine, just being aware of the area's conditions during the growing season can help you understand and recall the specifics of a particular vintage. If you were in Northern California in the summer of 2008, you'll remember the forest fires that plagued wine growing areas and left many grapes tainted by smoke, producing a unique crop of wines with an aroma not dissimilar to a Fourth of July barbecue. If you visited Germany and nearly froze to death in the winter of 2010, you'll likely never forget the record-breaking cold that produced some of the most highly acidic (and delicious) rieslings in recent history. You can read all you want about wine, but of course nothing compares to getting out there and experiencing it for yourself.

For the record, the highlights of my tasting experience included:

2010 Navarro Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, $19.50
light and earthy with soft red fruit and spice

2007 Navarro Vineyards Anderson Valley Late Harvest Riesling, $29 (375ml)
apricot, honey, and pineapple, with remarkably balanced acidity

2010 Breggo Cellars Ferrington Vineyard Gewürztraminer, $25
exotic aromas of rose petals, spice, and lychee; crisp, refreshing, and bone dry.

2010 Phillips Hill Ridley Vineyard Chardonnay, $30
clean nose (no oak or malolactic) with ripe apple and citrus. Round, pleasant mouthfeel.

2009 Phillips Hill Wiley Vineyard Pinot Noir, $38
cola, cocoa, cherry, vanilla, and baking spice.

Did I mention these wines are crazy affordable??